Hidden Corners of the French Riviera

The core idea: The real Riviera is not the Instagram version. It reveals itself slowly – in morning markets, coastal walks, and quiet hilltop villages.

One day in Nice (without rushing)

Book a chauffeur privé to start at the Cours Saleya market, then climb to the Colline du Château for the view. Afternoon in Vieux Nice's narrow alleys – each street specialises in something different (pasta, books, socca pancakes).

Eze – more than a photo stop

Arrive before 7:30 AM to feel the village's vibe. Walk the Nietzsche path (40 minutes down to the sea). Overnight guests get dinner under Mediterranean lights.

Coastal walk: Antibes to Cannes

The Sentier du Littoral takes 3 hours (8 km). Pass Plage de la Salis, Cap d'Antibes, Baie des Anges. Bring water and a swimsuit. Earn your rosé in Cannes.

Saint-Tropez without the celebrity hangover

Go at 6 AM – see fishermen unloading. Spend the morning at Place des Lices (petanque) and then Musée de l'Annonciade (Matisse, Signac). Avoid Pampelonne Beach; try Plage des Salins instead.

Menton – most underrated town

Warmest town on the coast, famous for lemons (February festival). Old town climbs in pastel spirals. Eat socca or barbajuan (fried Swiss chard pastries).

Quiet hilltop villages (arrière-pays)

• Saint-Paul-de-Vence: Fondation Maeght (Miró, Calder, Giacometti) – walk ramparts at sunset.
• Gourdon: perched 800m above the Loup Valley – views from the Mediterranean to the Alps.
• Tourrettes-sur-Loup: violet capital – sweets, syrup, ice cream. Kitschy but authentic.

Best coastal train (better than a car)

Train des Merveilles: Nice is on the Italian border, 40 min to Monaco, €15. Hugs the shoreline, windows open to the sea. Stop anywhere and catch the next train. No traffic, no parking.

Best times to visit (text only)

• May & June: perfect weather, crowds not yet arrived (except at the Cannes Film Festival mid-May).
• September & October: even better – warm sea, golden light, children back in school.
• July & August: crowded (beaches full by 10 AM, roads clogged by noon).
• December to February: quiet and cold – extraordinary light, empty villages.

How to get around without a car

• The TER train runs from Cannes to Menton – it's cheap, reliable, and has views drivers miss.
• Bus network (Lignes d'Azur) reaches every hilltop village.
• Boat shuttles from Nice to Saint-Tropez in summer (90 minutes, becomes an excursion).

One morning that captures everything

Take the early train to Villefranche-sur-Mer before sunrise. Walk to the old harbour. Coffee on the quay. Watch the light change from grey to gold to blue.